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Temperatures

Safe temperature, target temperature and carry-over are three different numbers. Confusing them is why breast meat comes out dry.

Three different numbers get confused with one another constantly: the temperature at which chicken becomes safe, the temperature at which it tastes best, and the temperature it reaches after you have stopped cooking it. They are not the same, and mixing them up is the most common reason home-cooked chicken breast is dry.

Safety is a combination of temperature and time

The figure everyone knows is 74 °C, and it is correct — but it is the instantaneous figure, the temperature at which the required reduction in salmonella happens immediately. Held for longer, considerably lower temperatures achieve exactly the same result.

Internal temperatureTime required at that temperaturePractical use
60 °CAbout 35 minutesSous-vide breast. Very moist, slightly unfamiliar texture.
63 °CAbout 12 minutesGentle poaching, if held reliably.
65 °CAbout 9 minutesThe target for breast here. Easily reached during resting.
70 °CAbout 1 minuteReached in passing by almost any conventional method.
74 °CInstantThe published headline figure, and the safe default.

These come from standard published pasteurisation tables. If you are cooking for anyone pregnant, elderly, very young or immunocompromised, ignore the top of the table and use 74 °C. Food-safety rules also differ between countries — follow the ones where you live rather than the ones on a website.

Target temperatures, by cut

CutPull from heat atFinishes atWhy
Breast, boneless63 °C65 °CNo collagen to convert. Every degree past this costs moisture.
Breast, on the bone65 °C68 °CBone slows the heat; a little more margin is safe.
Thigh and drumstick73 °C75 – 78 °CCollagen needs the heat and the time. Under 70 °C it stays rubbery.
Whole bird, at the thigh72 °C76 °CThe working compromise. Breast lands around 68 °C.
Wings74 °C76 °CMostly skin and collagen. There is nothing here to overcook.

Carry-over

Meat continues to cook after it leaves the heat, because the hot outside is still transferring heat inward. The size of the rise depends on mass and on how hot the oven was.

WhatTypical rise after removal
Boneless breast+ 2 °C
Chicken pieces, bone in+ 2 – 3 °C
Spatchcocked bird+ 3 °C
Whole bird, 1.5 – 2 kg+ 4 °C
Large turkey+ 8 – 10 °C

The practical consequence: always pull below your target. What is happening during that period →

Oven temperatures

Fan ovens circulate air, which transfers heat considerably faster than still air at the same reading. The conventional adjustment is to set a fan oven twenty degrees lower than a conventional one for the same effect.

ConventionalFanGasUsed for
160 °C140 °C3Long braises. Coq au vin.
170 °C150 °C3 – 4Uncovered braises where the skin still needs to crisp.
180 °C160 °C4The main stretch of a roast, after the initial blast.
200 °C180 °C6Starting a roast. Tray bakes.
220 °C200 °C7Wings, spatchcocked birds, anything where skin is the point.

Worth knowing: domestic ovens are frequently out by ten to fifteen degrees in either direction, and they cycle by more than that around the set point. An oven thermometer costs very little and will tell you more about your cooking than any recipe.